Product Overview
Flowers are violet blue in color, and they arrive steadily for most of the summer. Consistently delivers a great show, and is one of the best repeat bloomers. Superb with any of our Climbing Roses. Pruning group 2.
For beautiful colors, extravagance of blooms, and graceful habit, nothing compares with Clematis, the queen of the flowering vines. Whether used on posts or fences, clambering through shrubs and trees, or following wire frames in borders, they will enrich the landscape. Give them good soil, reasonable moisture, and shade at their roots.
Latin Name Pronunciation: klem'uh-tis
This very diverse group of lovely, ornamental vines will entice you to garden on the vertical plane. There's a Clematis for virtually every situation: grow the shorter and non-climbing types through shrub Roses and small trees and cover an arbor or a trellis with the taller varieties. The long flowering season begins with the compact alpinas and macropetalas in early spring, progresses through early summer with the large-flowered hybrids, continues through late summer with the boisterous texensis and viticella varieties, and concludes with the exuberant and infallible Clematis paniculata that will literally cover an unsightly structure or arbor in one season.
Light/Watering:
- In general, these lush vines like at least 6 hours of sun. Some varieties are adapted to partial shade and all benefit from afternoon shade in the South.
- Clematis prefers a cool root run, so lay flat stones at its base, or plant annuals or shallow-rooted perennials around them.
- Regular watering is desirable, especially during seasonal dry periods. Clematis is deep-rooted, so water thoroughly.
Fertilizer/Soil and pH:
- Clematis is at its best in rich soils with good drainage. It prefers a neutral soil, so check pH and add lime if needed.
- Dig a generous hole and amend soil as conditions indicate, avoiding fresh manures.
- Plant the crown of your plant 3–4″ below the soil surface; this will protect dormant buds that will provide new growth if the existing stem(s) are injured.
- Provide support immediately or plants will languish.
- Clematis is a heavy feeder; supply a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10 in spring, when the buds are about 2″ long. Alternate feedings every 4 to 6 weeks with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer. Continue this alternate feeding until the end of the growing season.
Pests/Diseases:
- Clematis is susceptible to fungi that can cause the vine to suddenly wilt and turn brown or black. Carefully prune out all diseased tissue and destroy; disinfect your pruners with a bleach solution. Generally this disease is not fatal, especially if you have planted the vine correctly, as dormant buds will send up new growth from the crown.
- Handle gently when planting and be careful when cultivating, as physical injury to the stems can cause them to wilt and die.
Companions:
- Plant these lovely vines at the base of shrubs and small trees; they will weave their way through the supporting foliage and extend the season of interest with their showy blooms.
- Use the woody structure of Shrub Roses to support the non-clinging Clematis varieties; for instance, grow purple or blue Clematis through a yellow Shrub Rose for a fabulous contrast. Remember that a supporting woody plant will compete with the Clematis for water and nutrients and adjust your culture as necessary.
Reflowering:
- To promote reflowering for late season bloomers during the growing season, the vine can be cut by one-half after the main bloom period.
- Varieties that flower on old and new wood will often throw out a few blooms at the end of the growing season.
Transplanting:
- Young vines may be moved with plenty of soil as long as they are watered religiously.
- Depending on variety, cut back lightly or severely before moving in early spring.
Pruning:
- Dead or damaged stems may be removed at any time.
- Early in the first spring after planting, prune the stems of all Clematis varieties down to the lowest pair of healthy buds. Thereafter, prune to control size and shape or to encourage more profuse bloom.
- Flowering tends to decline on stems that are four or more years old, so it's a good idea to prune out very old stems periodically in early spring. This pruning helps produce more compact plants with flowers closer to eye level. Sometimes, on older vines, the flowering is confined to a small area at the tops of the stems.
- If you wish, you can rejuvenate old plants by cutting them back severely, to about 18". Wait until after the first flush of bloom to perform the surgery.
